Touchscreen loose in the upper right corner, easy DIY fix?

[tenohtwo]

Hey all, I recently bought a used TEX 61, and have been using it for about two weeks. Today I noticed the upper right drop-down menu wasn't responding to any pressure, and can visibly see a small gap towards that corner (between the screen and the silver frame). Pushing the screen feels 'soft' there, whereas the other corners are nice and firm.

The previous owner told me that the touchscreen had been replaced (it does look new-ish), and I didn't see the gap or experience problems until today. Is this an easy DIY fix? I'm guessing there is a loose or missing screw for the mounting bracket inside?

Jim

[magilla66]

Hey all, I recently bought a used TEX 61, and have been using it for about two weeks. Today I noticed the upper right drop-down menu wasn't responding to any pressure, and can visibly see a small gap towards that corner (between the screen and the silver frame). Pushing the screen feels 'soft' there, whereas the other corners are nice and firm.

The previous owner told me that the touchscreen had been replaced (it does look new-ish), and I didn't see the gap or experience problems until today. Is this an easy DIY fix? I'm guessing there is a loose or missing screw for the mounting bracket inside?

Jim

Hi Jim,

Depends on how handy you feel you are taking the keyboard apart to get to it.

There are a few service manuals floating around that can walk you through the disassembly and reassembly.

Here’s a quick rundown of the process (if I miss a step or more, apologies, as I am going by memory of having done this rlast weekend, and not from a manual):

The first thing to learn is which screws to remove from the bottom of the case that releases the keybed from the upper half, the electronics. Once you remove just THOSE screws, tilt the keyboard up on its back edge, and slowly lean the bottom towards you. Then, lift the sides away from the base, and the keybed weight should separate the top from the bottom. Be careful, as there may be one or two long cables that attach the keybed to the upper half, and one more for the headphone jack (looks like an old grey CD audio cable for a computer).

There are a LOT of wiring harnesses inside; label them if you can, take pictures if not. Some ends will fit in more than one connection, it is imperative to plug them back in to their rightful places...

The second thing to learn is which screws to remove from the power board assembly, as there may be one or two side brackets and one long front bracket that the base screws into that you won’t or shouldn’t have to remove.

The LCD panel is under two PCB assemblies you’ll have to remove to get to. One is the MIDI port board, the other, the main power board. The entire power board assembly should be removed as one piece. Also note that the power board has connections for the family of TEX keyboards. Yours should be labeled with 61, as the others will have 76 or 88 beside them.

A very thin flat ribbon cable, about 2mm wide, connects the panel to the control board on the top left side of the keyboard (likely the Performance Controls board). You should not have to remove the Performance board to see if the LCD panel is missing a screw that secures the corner that is loose. The LCD panel, unless something else is amiss, does not have to be removed while resecuring it to the case.

Take pictures as you go, so you can reverse the process once you get inside the upper half of the case.

You can PM me if you have questions. I have had to field service my TEX88 a few times right before band practice (never before a gig, however, thank God), and know the “sinking feeling” when buttons or sliders, etc. feel weird or press too far into the case.

Tony