Recapping 01/W:Power supply cap & LCD upgrade(update #3)

[John01W]

Hi folks. Have my beloved 01/W completely taken apart for a lcd upgrade and I'm thinking of recapping the power supply while everything is apart. Can't find any info about what the large black capacitor type is on the PS board. Is this a snap-in style capacitor? Thanks.

[the_crimson_thunder]

Can't find any info about what the large black capacitor type is on the PS board. Is this a snap-in style capacitor?

Not mandatory - I would turn the psu board over and measure the spacing between the capacitor's 'legs' to find one fitting into the existing holes. And I recommend to get one with a higher voltage - lets say: 6800µF/35V or 6800µF/50V - just to be on the safe side. Oh, and take care to get a 105°C type!

[John01W]

Can't find any info about what the large black capacitor type is on the PS board. Is this a snap-in style capacitor?

Not mandatory - I would turn the psu board over and measure the spacing between the capacitor's 'legs' to find one fitting into the existing holes. And I recommend to get one with a higher voltage - lets say: 6800µF/35V or 6800µF/50V - just to be on the safe side. Oh, and take care to get a 105°C type!

Thanks a lot:). I thought about going up to 105° for the big cap. Korg used Elna caps throughout the 01/W. The modern equivalent snap in Elna is only 85°.

I'm also thinking about going ahead and replacing the "usual suspect" problem caps on the 01/W pcb....that being C95, C96, C101, and C102. If these go they can take with them the fused resistors on there that are a pita to get and possible much more. I figured to ahead and replace them now since it's pretty impossible to get the 01/W main pcb anymore, and I love my 01/W so much....want to save her. I want to replace them with some high quality caps and stick to Elna or possibly Nichicon...but there are so many different series of each, I'm having a hard time trying to decide what's appropriate for this part of the pcb.

Here's a pic of them from my 01:


Then there are these...the 8 non-polarized caps after the op amps and the 2 caps that are right before the audio outs:

[John01W]

Ok after much research here's the direction I'm going.


For the audio path caps(bi-polar)...meaning the 8 caps by the opamps and the 2 by the audio connector on the board(see pic above) I'm going with

Nichicon Muse ES series
http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partg ... vendor=493

For everything else(powersupply and non-audio related caps on the main board, I'm going with

Nichicon PW series(low esr, hi ripple tolerance, hi temp)
http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partg ... eries/3637

For the ONE Snap-In cap on the PS I'm going with

Nichicon LS series:
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... vendor=493

Will recap the PS board and put fresh thermal compound(non-conductive) on the regulators as the old stuff seems dried out.

My new lcd display arrived in the mail today so I'm very excited about that. NO MORE EL BACKLIGHTS!

Went ahead and resoldered the audio jacks on the audio output board(were getting flaky)....nice new shiny solder pads!:

[the_crimson_thunder]

As for the 'snap-in' type I would definitely go for one of these (if the leg spacing fits...):
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... ageSize=25

[John01W]

As for the 'snap-in' type I would definitely go for one of these (if the leg spacing fits...):
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... ageSize=25

Cool:) Thanks a lot. Little bit better safety margin on volts too(vs. 25 originally in 01/W). One thing I've notice is the leg spacing on all I've seen no matter what series is standard 10mm. Don't know how I missed those, TY!

[the_crimson_thunder]

You're welcome! Yes, a little higher operating voltage is always recommended - and the Lifetime@operating temperatur is 5000 Hrs @ 105°C - the lower the temp the longer the life... I think with one of those you're on the safe side.

[John01W]

You're welcome! Yes, a little higher operating voltage is always recommended - and the Lifetime@operating temperatur is 5000 Hrs @ 105°C - the lower the temp the longer the life... I think with one of those you're on the safe side.

Awesome...Just got finished installing the new lcd and reassembling the 01(talk about a PITA!!!, Complete disassembly to get to the display) I'm in the final moments before turning it on to make sure everything is "ok" lol.

I figured make sure all is ok with this, then worry about caps....the power supply and main board come out without too much hassle.

[the_crimson_thunder]

Just got finished installing the new lcd and reassembling the 01(talk about a PITA!!!, Complete disassembly to get to the display)

Yeah - exactly the same over here - took my M1 apart and gave her a 'Cool Blue' display upgrade - turned ON power - and NOTHING not a single light anywhere

Found out was was wrong - my bad - just forgot to cut a trace after soldering in a new connection (its for the contrast of the LC display...) and now I'm on the hunt for what else is damaged...

[John01W]

SUCCESS and it's very pretty...I can't capture how bright this awesome display is now...the whites look slightly pink in the picture(the keys too for reference) because of the flash but they are bright white in the real world. AWESOME display!

NO MORE whining blacklight either!!!!
<a href="http://imgur.com/H4lAMyO"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/H4lAMyO.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com"></a>

Yeah - exactly the same over here - took my M1 apart and gave her a 'Cool Blue' display upgrade - turned ON power - and NOTHING not a single light anywhere

Found out was was wrong - my bad - just forgot to cut a trace after soldering in a new connection (its for the contrast of the LC display...) and now I'm on the hunt for what else is damaged...

HMMM....During bootup of the synth, it will NOT startup unless the new screen initializes. During this upgrade I freaked out because before I configured the new display I got no Combi/Prog button lights and the disk light was on, no sound and the synth wouldn't boot or anything. I configured it correctly and it booted right up!

If the new display doesn't initialize then nothing will come on. If you can't get the new screen to work...you could always repair the trace put in the old display to make sure everything works and you didn't damage anything. The 01/W would NOT boot until the display initialized.

[the_crimson_thunder]

Wow - another synth looking awesome!

HMMM....During bootup of the synth, it will NOT startup unless the new screen initializes. During this upgrade I freaked out because before I configured the new display I got no Combi/Prog button lights and the disk light was on, no sound and the synth wouldn't boot or anything. I configured it correctly and it booted right up!
If the new display doesn't initialize then nothing will come on. If you can't get the new screen to work...you could always repair the trace put in the old display to make sure everything works and you didn't damage anything. The 01/W would NOT boot until the display initialized.

Thanks, good hint. Will dive into it and see what I'll find. Maybe I'll test that display on my M1REX which already got a 'Cool Blue' upgrade some days ago just to find out if it works or got damaged (hopefully not... )

Edit #1:
Just tested the display on my M1REX - NO success - not a single light! Re-connected the M1REX's 'Cool Blue' - works - pheew
Then checked the connector (which I took from the old display) - seems to have it soldered to the wrong side of the LCD's pcb (= wrong wiring)! Desoldered, turned around, soldered, tested - WORKS my bad! Next is to fit back into the M1 and see what happens then...
I'll keep you updated how it goes...

Edit #2:
Put the display back in my M1 and checked - again no success wtf is going on here? Looking for some pics of the genuine display at the web - found some good ones - and checked the connector's position against my not working 'Cool Blue'. Desoldered the pcb's connector again and turned it the 'right' way round as shown on the pic... aaaand back into the M1! Power ON - YIIHAAA! SUCCESS!!! A slight turn of the contrast knob and all was fine! Now I can re-assemble the whole thing!

P.S. I have to say that I had replaced 3 IC's (IC3,8,13 - CD4053) on the DAC pcb (KLM-1261) - maybe one (or more) of them got damaged while being fed with +5V at pin 7 (which should be a negative potential...). Eventually this helped...

[John01W]

Wow - another synth looking awesome!

HMMM....During bootup of the synth, it will NOT startup unless the new screen initializes. During this upgrade I freaked out because before I configured the new display I got no Combi/Prog button lights and the disk light was on, no sound and the synth wouldn't boot or anything. I configured it correctly and it booted right up!
If the new display doesn't initialize then nothing will come on. If you can't get the new screen to work...you could always repair the trace put in the old display to make sure everything works and you didn't damage anything. The 01/W would NOT boot until the display initialized.

Thanks, good hint. Will dive into it and see what I'll find. Maybe I'll test that display on my M1REX which already got a 'Cool Blue' upgrade some days ago just to find out if it works or got damaged (hopefully not... )

Edit #1:
Just tested the display on my M1REX - NO success - not a single light! Re-connected the M1REX's 'Cool Blue' - works - pheew
Then checked the connector (which I took from the old display) - seems to have it soldered to the wrong side of the LCD's pcb (= wrong wiring)! Desoldered, turned around, soldered, tested - WORKS my bad! Next is to fit back into the M1 and see what happens then...
I'll keep you updated how it goes...

Edit #2:
Put the display back in my M1 and checked - again no success wtf is going on here? Looking for some pics of the genuine display at the web - found some good ones - and checked the connector's position against my not working 'Cool Blue'. Desoldered the pcb's connector again and turned it the 'right' way round as shown on the pic... aaaand back into the M1! Power ON - YIIHAAA! SUCCESS!!! A slight turn of the contrast knob and all was fine! Now I can re-assemble the whole thing!

P.S. I have to say that I had replaced 3 IC's (IC3,8,13 - CD4053) on the DAC pcb (KLM-1261) - maybe one (or more) of them got damaged while being fed with +5V at pin 7 (which should be a negative potential...). Eventually this helped...

THANKS! So happy with this new display. Also noticed resoldering the audio jack board gave the 01/W a little cleaner sound as well. Was getting dull with those old solder joints.

AWESOME! Great news man, happy you got one of your babies running again! Sounds like a journey you've had on that M1! Glad it worked out! The racks so so much a breeze to work on compared to the keyboards aren't they!?!

I had at one time 2 01R/W racks going along with my 01/Wfd but sold them both a long time ago like a fool...I thought I just had to have the EXB-MOSS board at the time lol. I'll be getting another 01R/W soon and putting that display in, will be A LOT easier than the keyboard.

I don't know if the M1 is like the 01/W series....but to replace the display you literally have to disassemble everything. The only thing left still attached to the 01/W by the time I got down to the display was the side panels lol.

Have you recapped either of your M1s?

[the_crimson_thunder]

The racks so so much a breeze to work on compared to the keyboards aren't they!?!

Tell me about it!

I don't know if the M1 is like the 01/W series....but to replace the display you literally have to disassemble everything. The only thing left still attached to the 01/W by the time I got down to the display was the side panels lol.

Not everything, but almost. I could leave the keybed in as well as the button pcb's - just remove one screw at the shielding foil and you're there - then another 2 screws and the baby comes out. But everytime I have to dig deeper it feels like a pain in the axx...

Have you recapped either of your M1s?

Yess - AFAIK all of my synhts have had a 'recapping session' - want to be on the safe side. You never know...
My M1REX had a leaking capacitor when I purchased it - showed battery warning and had an empty internal memory. I was 'prepeared' and had a memory card in my pocket to test the synth - all good so far so I took it home. But I didn't test the if internal memory can 'hold' the sounds - it could not! Checking the mainboard I found that C32 had leaked its acid onto the mainboard. It even 'crept' under the DAC chip - I desoldered it, cleaned the pcb, put in a socket and the DAC back into place. Replaced all 4 electrolytic capacitors (incl. C32) and the coin cell. But still no chance to store in internal memory

After another closer inspection I found the culprit: a copper trace had been 'eaten up' by the acid - this trace supplies the RAM chips (Pin 28 ) with the 3V from the battery if the synth is switched OFF. I found the disruption and bypassed it with a short piece of wire - now all was (is) good - the unit works like a charm since then

[the_crimson_thunder]

Update:

My M1 is back to life again and well!
Everything including the new 'Cool Blue' works like it should!

See some pics here:

[John01W]

Looks great man! Glad it got sorted. Gotta give these classics some love! I'll never part with mine, love it very very much;)!