Hi!
I recently got a problem with my Triton.. When I press the damper pedal, the sound lowers in pitch, about 30 cents or so, very annoying.
Why? Any solutions?
Thanks
Vetle
Problem with my Korg Triton LE!!!
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Fatalmasterpiece
- Senior Member
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mastersamu
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:16 am
This is incredibly weird, I've just found i have the same problem on my TR!!
It wasn't like this a few days ago...
does your pitch bend (joystick x axis) work at all?
in detail:
- pressing a sustain pedal will cause pitch to raise by pitchbend amount.
- pressing assignable switch will also cause pitch to raise by pitchbend amount
- i don't have an expression pedal but inserting said assignable switch or sustain pedal into the assignable pedal socket will cause pitch to raise also
- joystick x axis refuses to respond
to me it sounds like some of the wires have snagged and are shorting across eachother, so that pedal sockets are interfearing with pitch bend ADC input. this is also supported by the fact that for a while my joystick felt stiff as if a cable were pulling when I use js-y.
I will take mine to an engineer in the next few days to see what is happening here.
It wasn't like this a few days ago...
does your pitch bend (joystick x axis) work at all?
in detail:
- pressing a sustain pedal will cause pitch to raise by pitchbend amount.
- pressing assignable switch will also cause pitch to raise by pitchbend amount
- i don't have an expression pedal but inserting said assignable switch or sustain pedal into the assignable pedal socket will cause pitch to raise also
- joystick x axis refuses to respond
to me it sounds like some of the wires have snagged and are shorting across eachother, so that pedal sockets are interfearing with pitch bend ADC input. this is also supported by the fact that for a while my joystick felt stiff as if a cable were pulling when I use js-y.
I will take mine to an engineer in the next few days to see what is happening here.
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DeacondDesperado
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:54 pm
Solved!
So I experienced this problem quite precipitously today during band practice, and it pretty much ruined my day.
Upon returning home I found MANY posts on this forum regarding it, and most of them advised visiting an engineer. While that is probably the best recourse, I fixed it on the first try with only a basic understanding of electrical connections. For the DIY types out there, I compiled photos to help others with the problem!
Be advised, you should only follow this guide if you feel comfortable futzing about with electronic equipment! If you don't know anything about basic electronic connections, take your machine to a service tech.
Tutorial follows:
1:
You're going to need to remove the bottom plate that encloses all the circuitry. Remove all of the screws affixing the bottom plate, including the recessed black ones in the corner. You don't need to remove the two small ones that hold the covers for the Sample Expansion and memory boards. These will come off with the main plate.
2:
If you are suffering from the dreaded joystick wiring fault, your problem should be immediately apparent. One or more of the wires attached with the 3 pin clip have broken off of the clip. It is such a common problem because the parts shift so much during use, stressing the wires. On mine, the two white wires dislodged (you can see them between my fingers.)
3:
Your work will probably be much simpler if you remove the harness as a whole, disconnecting it at its three contact points so you can work freely, away from the circuitry, under a lighted area. Gently disconnect the culprit set of wires from its three contact points pictured below. You will notice that this cable runs along with the others through a set of malleable clips. Once it is loosed from it's contacts, you can open these clips and pull the wire out (on the TR, they are white, yellow, and gray, the gray set of leads going to the right side of the joystick.)
Once out, you will notice that the heads of the wires have broken off inside the 3 pin plastic clip. It shouldn't be too hard from the pattern in the wires to tell which wire should be attached to which pin in the plastic clip. You should label them or separate them to be certain you don't confuse them. Use a small tool such as an eyeglass screwdriver or dental pick (the later is preferable) to gently pull back the plastic tab holding the wire head inside and remove the severed wire head with the metal contact attached. You should end up with a little metal contact clip with at severed wire head inside it. Now we need to get the plastic and dead wire out so we just have the contact from within the plastic clip, pictured below.
Use the same tool to pry out and slowly remove the dead wire head that broke off inside the clip, rubber jacket and all. You should then strip a little rubber shielding on the wires themselves about a quarter inch past the point the broke at. Using your tool, attach the metal contact clips to the freshly stripped area of wire. This is the hardest part and takes some patience. Make sure you clamp and depress the metal tabs on the clip back into the rubber wire shielding when you are finished. They should be securely attached, or when the joystick pivots they will come off.
Once the contact clips you removed from the 3 pin plastic connectors are newly attached to their wires, insert them back into the plastic clip and gently reattach it to the joystick pins. It is important that you insert each wire back into its original place in the clip, 1, 2 ,3 Then reattach the whole cable to the other two points on the circuitry, one near the the outputs on the back and the other just to the right of the joystick. Fit the wiring back through the bendable holders and bend them back around the cables to secure them (you should leave a little more slack on the last clip near the joystick... it will let more wire move around when the y-axis is pushed, the common cause of this problem.)
If you have been successful, your joystick will surely work (and probably be a bit sturdier if you did it with some care!)
Upon returning home I found MANY posts on this forum regarding it, and most of them advised visiting an engineer. While that is probably the best recourse, I fixed it on the first try with only a basic understanding of electrical connections. For the DIY types out there, I compiled photos to help others with the problem!
Be advised, you should only follow this guide if you feel comfortable futzing about with electronic equipment! If you don't know anything about basic electronic connections, take your machine to a service tech.
Tutorial follows:
1:
You're going to need to remove the bottom plate that encloses all the circuitry. Remove all of the screws affixing the bottom plate, including the recessed black ones in the corner. You don't need to remove the two small ones that hold the covers for the Sample Expansion and memory boards. These will come off with the main plate.
2:
If you are suffering from the dreaded joystick wiring fault, your problem should be immediately apparent. One or more of the wires attached with the 3 pin clip have broken off of the clip. It is such a common problem because the parts shift so much during use, stressing the wires. On mine, the two white wires dislodged (you can see them between my fingers.)
3:
Your work will probably be much simpler if you remove the harness as a whole, disconnecting it at its three contact points so you can work freely, away from the circuitry, under a lighted area. Gently disconnect the culprit set of wires from its three contact points pictured below. You will notice that this cable runs along with the others through a set of malleable clips. Once it is loosed from it's contacts, you can open these clips and pull the wire out (on the TR, they are white, yellow, and gray, the gray set of leads going to the right side of the joystick.)
Once out, you will notice that the heads of the wires have broken off inside the 3 pin plastic clip. It shouldn't be too hard from the pattern in the wires to tell which wire should be attached to which pin in the plastic clip. You should label them or separate them to be certain you don't confuse them. Use a small tool such as an eyeglass screwdriver or dental pick (the later is preferable) to gently pull back the plastic tab holding the wire head inside and remove the severed wire head with the metal contact attached. You should end up with a little metal contact clip with at severed wire head inside it. Now we need to get the plastic and dead wire out so we just have the contact from within the plastic clip, pictured below.
Use the same tool to pry out and slowly remove the dead wire head that broke off inside the clip, rubber jacket and all. You should then strip a little rubber shielding on the wires themselves about a quarter inch past the point the broke at. Using your tool, attach the metal contact clips to the freshly stripped area of wire. This is the hardest part and takes some patience. Make sure you clamp and depress the metal tabs on the clip back into the rubber wire shielding when you are finished. They should be securely attached, or when the joystick pivots they will come off.
Once the contact clips you removed from the 3 pin plastic connectors are newly attached to their wires, insert them back into the plastic clip and gently reattach it to the joystick pins. It is important that you insert each wire back into its original place in the clip, 1, 2 ,3 Then reattach the whole cable to the other two points on the circuitry, one near the the outputs on the back and the other just to the right of the joystick. Fit the wiring back through the bendable holders and bend them back around the cables to secure them (you should leave a little more slack on the last clip near the joystick... it will let more wire move around when the y-axis is pushed, the common cause of this problem.)
If you have been successful, your joystick will surely work (and probably be a bit sturdier if you did it with some care!)
Don't fear the eyes of the Dark Lord!
<a href="http://www.myopiaband.com/">Myopia, True New England Power Metal</a>
<a href="http://www.coalition7.com/">Coalition7, Web Solutions</a>
<a href="http://www.myopiaband.com/">Myopia, True New England Power Metal</a>
<a href="http://www.coalition7.com/">Coalition7, Web Solutions</a>
Well done!
Much appreciated, although mine hasn't broken ...yet, this could be very useful, thanks for taking the time and effort.
Regards,
Much appreciated, although mine hasn't broken ...yet, this could be very useful, thanks for taking the time and effort.
Regards,
Stephen
https://www.soundclick.com/artist/defau ... ID=1514031
http://www.soundclick.com/jsf
http://cdbaby.com/all/jstephenfoster
Location Central U.S.A.
https://www.soundclick.com/artist/defau ... ID=1514031
http://www.soundclick.com/jsf
http://cdbaby.com/all/jstephenfoster
Location Central U.S.A.
Thats brilliant. Ifthis had been around before I would have tried to fix mine. a bit of electronics background...
but aparently another common problem is the PCB actually IN the joystick fracturing, and the connections have to be bridged with wires. This is the problem I encountered.
both problems have the same result, just the dammage is in slightly different places.
but aparently another common problem is the PCB actually IN the joystick fracturing, and the connections have to be bridged with wires. This is the problem I encountered.
both problems have the same result, just the dammage is in slightly different places.
Current Gear: Kronos 61, RADIAS-R, Volca Bass, ESX-1, microKorg, MS2000B, R3, Kaossilator Pro +, MiniKP, AX3000B, nanoKontrol, nanoPad MK II,
Other Mfgrs: Moog Sub37, Roland Boutique JX03, Novation MiniNova, Akai APC40, MOTU MIDI TimePiece 2, ART Pro VLA, Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.
Past Gear: Korg Karma, TR61, Poly800, EA-1, ER-1, ES-1, Kawai K1, Novation ReMote37SL, Boss GT-6B
Software: NI Komplete 10 Ultimate, Arturia V Collection, Ableton Live 9. Apple OSX El Capitan on 15" MacBook Pro
Other Mfgrs: Moog Sub37, Roland Boutique JX03, Novation MiniNova, Akai APC40, MOTU MIDI TimePiece 2, ART Pro VLA, Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.
Past Gear: Korg Karma, TR61, Poly800, EA-1, ER-1, ES-1, Kawai K1, Novation ReMote37SL, Boss GT-6B
Software: NI Komplete 10 Ultimate, Arturia V Collection, Ableton Live 9. Apple OSX El Capitan on 15" MacBook Pro
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DeacondDesperado
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:54 pm
The PCB itself split? Ugh, incredibly nasty.
On mine it was surely the cold that chilled the wires and made them taut enough to dislodge on heavy use. The practice space my band is currently in is in an industrial cellar, so the temperatures here in the Northeastern US easily go below freezing in such a place.
I've considered hot gluing the connection as well, just on the plastic clip part. I've done this with my PC and it made the connections a bit sturdier.
On mine it was surely the cold that chilled the wires and made them taut enough to dislodge on heavy use. The practice space my band is currently in is in an industrial cellar, so the temperatures here in the Northeastern US easily go below freezing in such a place.
I've considered hot gluing the connection as well, just on the plastic clip part. I've done this with my PC and it made the connections a bit sturdier.
Don't fear the eyes of the Dark Lord!
<a href="http://www.myopiaband.com/">Myopia, True New England Power Metal</a>
<a href="http://www.coalition7.com/">Coalition7, Web Solutions</a>
<a href="http://www.myopiaband.com/">Myopia, True New England Power Metal</a>
<a href="http://www.coalition7.com/">Coalition7, Web Solutions</a>
Any of you had the problem where you turn on the keyboard
(Triton le 76) and stored combi patches are detuned or raised in pitch. After I changed them manually they kept returning to the detuned settings. Finally had to reboot, now works fine.
Drag is I lost some key patches and had a lot of work rebuilding them.
New Problem: I need to assign pitch bend to the keyboard aftertouch. Is this possible..If so...How?
HELP
(Triton le 76) and stored combi patches are detuned or raised in pitch. After I changed them manually they kept returning to the detuned settings. Finally had to reboot, now works fine.
Drag is I lost some key patches and had a lot of work rebuilding them.
New Problem: I need to assign pitch bend to the keyboard aftertouch. Is this possible..If so...How?
HELP
I have same problem with Karma, but after time it stopped. I have worries that it will start again..
Next week i will get it to engineer...
Next week i will get it to engineer...
Gear: Korg M50, Korg X50, Korg Karma
http://www.youtube.com/user/Syntey
http://www.youtube.com/user/Syntey