Korg Forums

it DOES NOT WORK due to the unfortunate original odyssey design - when plugged, the cv input jack cuts off the keyboard which makes sq1 bad choice for arp odyssey (or axxe) in particular to get around this you would need external cv summing - not a simple solution NOTE: no problem if you are using ...

Getting a bit obsessed by this idea... if you have a reverse keyboard, how about swapping one colour with me? We could end-up with two unique keyboards, one full-white and one full-black...

Has anyone noticed that the Owner's Manual describes exactly the same procedure for setting Sync and Gate polarity? In both cases it is controlled by MODE button, which is... uhm... looks like obvious error to me.

Another detuned Polysix. Deano909, you may Google something like "polysix F#4 VR1 VR3" and you will get lot of materials. However, not everything is clear so you will need a bit of luck. I have "older revision" board with KLM 396A, so I have less trim pots to wiggle, the magic VR2 and VR14 are not ...

SV-1 certianly looks sexy, but the shape makes stacking another keyboard on top impossible. You can put one X stand above it but it somehow does not look right. The original stand looks stable enough for stacking up a fairly light keyboard, say up to 5 kg without additional support. So I am thinking ...

Hi, my SV-1 and Electro 4D are perfect combination. The E4D hammond emulation is amazing. I also like Clavia sample library and the ability to add my own samples. It can be a lifesaver. And, it fits perfectly on top of SV-1. I am using slightly modified light weight X stand to support the E4D's back ...

You have to HOLD the transpose button until it starts blinking. After that the first key you press will set your transposition relative to C3.

How you can see the button blinking while it is covered by your finger, is another question. I suggest using silicone prosthetic fingers

Cheers,

Mantrak

My wish list is really short:

- Better Drive control
- Resonance/amount control for Auto Wah

Thanx in advance!

No, I prefer auto wah. Actually, the most classic vintage wah application I know is Clavinet + auto wah. Like the one on Higher Ground by Stevie Wonder. You cannot get that one with SV1, the resonance is too strong. Another reason I don't use pedal is that then I would have too many pedals to ...

I agree. Auto Wah is set too strong and lacks some kind of "Amount" or "Filter Q" control. Compared to usual Clavinet + Mu-Tron setup, it is too harsh. Too bad, because D6 sounds are very realistic and pleasure to play. There is even a free knob "Intensity" right there which could be used for that ...

For those looking to Nord Electro 3, I was greatly dissapointed. In comparison to SV-1 it sounds and feels like a toy. I had it for a week and returned it. My BX-3 from 2003 has better Hammond simulation and also has real drawbars. SV-1 and BX-3 are much heavier to carry around, but it is well worth ...

I am aware that the "solution" for this problem is to tweak sounds using the Editor software. I did it but it is way too tricky. Also it does not help once you go back to the control panel. Whatever you do with the editor, the Drive knob on the control panel remains too coarse. This is realy a ...

After installing OS 1.2 and messing around with SP2 sounds I am realizing that Drive button works quite differently than before. Now there is huge jump from position 0 to 1. It practically jumps the whole usable range, there is almost nothing usable above 2 or 3 as distortion becomes ridiculously ...

Perhaps you are going out of transpose range which is +/- one octave. If you go beyond that nothing happens, you stay where you are. That bugged me for a while too.