ESX FUSE; Replacement info/help
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ESX FUSE; Replacement info/help
My ESX has stopped working. It just stays on the yellow screen, no display comes up. Nothing happens when I try to
So by research, its either the power supply(which I doubt), or the (most likely) the surface mount fuse 1.5A 63v etc - or in combination
Korg Australia says in email they dont have to fix it for free/ wont do it, they gave me a list of techs to call.
I've soldered before, done electronics a few years back, am fairly good at it.
So I was going to order the fuse that has been recommended here in that .jpg guide where it has the part number. http://pulprecords.free.fr/fusible.jpg
I live in Australia, so the shipping cost from Digikey is $30 for a $1-$2 little fuse. -http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/701555 ... 1-5nr.html
Not acceptable. Too expensive shippign cost.
So I'm seeing about getting the fuse inside Australia instead.
Here is what I found;
http://au.farnell.com/bussmann/3216ff1- ... dp/1123255
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... &R=5413394
Will these, any of these work fine?
Note that Australia is 240V.
one part from a site there I think is 63v-voltage rating, but the other/s is something like 125v.
What is up with this?
Should I get the 125v fuse because i'm in australia which is 240V ? or do I have to get the 63v only?
my ESX is australian
HElp! [/url]
So by research, its either the power supply(which I doubt), or the (most likely) the surface mount fuse 1.5A 63v etc - or in combination
Korg Australia says in email they dont have to fix it for free/ wont do it, they gave me a list of techs to call.
I've soldered before, done electronics a few years back, am fairly good at it.
So I was going to order the fuse that has been recommended here in that .jpg guide where it has the part number. http://pulprecords.free.fr/fusible.jpg
I live in Australia, so the shipping cost from Digikey is $30 for a $1-$2 little fuse. -http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/701555 ... 1-5nr.html
Not acceptable. Too expensive shippign cost.
So I'm seeing about getting the fuse inside Australia instead.
Here is what I found;
http://au.farnell.com/bussmann/3216ff1- ... dp/1123255
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... &R=5413394
Will these, any of these work fine?
Note that Australia is 240V.
one part from a site there I think is 63v-voltage rating, but the other/s is something like 125v.
What is up with this?
Should I get the 125v fuse because i'm in australia which is 240V ? or do I have to get the 63v only?
my ESX is australian
HElp! [/url]
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:41 pm
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:41 pm
If it has an external power adaptor, I imagine it would be the same because the power adaptor has already taken it down to the required voltage.
Anyway, if you put one too low in, it will just blow up again, so there is no harm in trying it, other than increasing the chances of screwing up the repair by having to do it twice. That PCB mount fuse already there is tiny.
Anyway, if you put one too low in, it will just blow up again, so there is no harm in trying it, other than increasing the chances of screwing up the repair by having to do it twice. That PCB mount fuse already there is tiny.
Current Gear: Kronos 61, RADIAS-R, Volca Bass, ESX-1, microKorg, MS2000B, R3, Kaossilator Pro +, MiniKP, AX3000B, nanoKontrol, nanoPad MK II,
Other Mfgrs: Moog Sub37, Roland Boutique JX03, Novation MiniNova, Akai APC40, MOTU MIDI TimePiece 2, ART Pro VLA, Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.
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Software: NI Komplete 10 Ultimate, Arturia V Collection, Ableton Live 9. Apple OSX El Capitan on 15" MacBook Pro
Other Mfgrs: Moog Sub37, Roland Boutique JX03, Novation MiniNova, Akai APC40, MOTU MIDI TimePiece 2, ART Pro VLA, Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.
Past Gear: Korg Karma, TR61, Poly800, EA-1, ER-1, ES-1, Kawai K1, Novation ReMote37SL, Boss GT-6B
Software: NI Komplete 10 Ultimate, Arturia V Collection, Ableton Live 9. Apple OSX El Capitan on 15" MacBook Pro
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I would suggest that you not replace the fuse until you learn a lot more about how fuses work, the various kinds of fuses, and how to properly pick a replacement fuse.
Fuses have a soft metal link that is designed to melt based on the current that flows through it for a certain period of time. The voltage rating just needs to be as high or higher than what it's replacing. The problem is that you can pick a fuse with the right current and voltage, but your gear still may get toasted if you pick the wrong kind of fuse, such as a slow blow fuse to replace a fast acting fuse. For example, Moser Electronics lists 31 kinds of surface mount 1.5A 63V fuses.
http://www.mouser.com
You need to narrow down the characteristics.
You also shouldn't replace a fuse until you have identified why the fuse blew in the first place with some certainty. Otherwise you may burn up more components by replacing the fuse without fixing the root cause. That usually requires knowledge of circuit diagnosis and a schematic, so that you can determine that everything around the fuse is working within specs. But I can usually guess that the problem is that someone tried plugging a 110-120V US power supply into a 240V circuit. That seems to be a common problem for Australians. Replacing components in a circuit should be left to those who understand electronics, since you have a good chance of making the problem worse if you try to "fix" it without understanding what you're doing.
Fuses have a soft metal link that is designed to melt based on the current that flows through it for a certain period of time. The voltage rating just needs to be as high or higher than what it's replacing. The problem is that you can pick a fuse with the right current and voltage, but your gear still may get toasted if you pick the wrong kind of fuse, such as a slow blow fuse to replace a fast acting fuse. For example, Moser Electronics lists 31 kinds of surface mount 1.5A 63V fuses.
http://www.mouser.com
You need to narrow down the characteristics.
You also shouldn't replace a fuse until you have identified why the fuse blew in the first place with some certainty. Otherwise you may burn up more components by replacing the fuse without fixing the root cause. That usually requires knowledge of circuit diagnosis and a schematic, so that you can determine that everything around the fuse is working within specs. But I can usually guess that the problem is that someone tried plugging a 110-120V US power supply into a 240V circuit. That seems to be a common problem for Australians. Replacing components in a circuit should be left to those who understand electronics, since you have a good chance of making the problem worse if you try to "fix" it without understanding what you're doing.
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The original surface mount fuses were underrated, hence the amount of machines that have the issue.
there are people on here that have just jumped the fuse with a wire, or replaced it with a slightly higher rated fuse.
the mainboard will not suddenly blow out because you have an over rated fuse in it. It was designed to protect against power spikes and power supply failure. it is not something that is terribly likely to happen as there are allready two fail safes before this point. The fuse in your plug, and a faster burning fuse in the power supply.
there are people on here that have just jumped the fuse with a wire, or replaced it with a slightly higher rated fuse.
the mainboard will not suddenly blow out because you have an over rated fuse in it. It was designed to protect against power spikes and power supply failure. it is not something that is terribly likely to happen as there are allready two fail safes before this point. The fuse in your plug, and a faster burning fuse in the power supply.
Aint no thing like a chicken wing.....
Bypassing the fuse merely transfers the risk of overcurrent from a relatively inexpensive fuse to more expensive components. Sure, fuses don't cause anything to blow as they are just wires designed to melt with current above a threshold - they are the protection. Eliminate the fuse and you eliminate the protection. If the overcurrent condition occurs again with a bypassed fuse or a fuse that doesn't blow when it should, then you'll discover the cost the hard way when you release the magic smoke. Personally, I'd replace it with a 1.5A fuse with some long leads that let me measure the actual current with my clamp-on DC ammeter, just to see how close the current is to the threshold for the fuse.
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ok I wont replace it myself.
but I just need to know what exact fuse to get, and where to get it.
surely someone here has replaced their's successfully?
I bought my ESX in Australia, so I have a 240v Australian power supply that came with it. maybe I should try replacing the power supply? but it doesnt seems like its the power supply, as it still turns the ESX on. I just get the blank yellow display screen.
I just want to get the right fuse, then take it and the fuse to a synth-repair person, and have them do it as quick as they can.
but I just need to know what exact fuse to get, and where to get it.
surely someone here has replaced their's successfully?
I bought my ESX in Australia, so I have a 240v Australian power supply that came with it. maybe I should try replacing the power supply? but it doesnt seems like its the power supply, as it still turns the ESX on. I just get the blank yellow display screen.
I just want to get the right fuse, then take it and the fuse to a synth-repair person, and have them do it as quick as they can.
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:41 pm
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