So last night, we play a new place that we've never played before. I get my gear all set up as usual and the show starts. Midway through me holding down a string patch (analog velvet by the way) I hear weird noises and sounds coming out of my monitor - all in the same notes I'm holding down. I look at the display and I see my Triton rolling through patches. The screen was behaving as if someone had their finger on the jog dial and was spinning it backwards and forwards without stopping.
Since I also use my M50 now, I merely picked up on the M50 for the rest of the show so it wasn't as bad as it could have been. But I power cycled the Triton a couple times and tried to resume playing on it and within seconds, it did it again.
The venue was relatively new - much newer than some of the places we have played in the past but I'm wondering if it's a power or current issue. I use an APC Line-R LE1200 Automatic Voltage Regulator but the indicator light showed the input voltage was high. The APC should have corrected it so it SHOULDN'T have been as issue.
Anyone else ever experience this with their Triton? 1st time for me...
-Mc
p.s. Lesson for you kids out there: ALWAYS GIG WITH A BACKUP.
My beloved Triton freaked out last night during a show
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My beloved Triton freaked out last night during a show
Current Korg Gear: KRONOS 88 (4GB), M50-73 (PS mod), RADIAS-73, Electribe MX, Triton Pro (MOSS, SCSI, CF, 64MB RAM), SQ-64, DVP-1, MEX-8000, MR-1, KAOSSilator, nanoKey, nanoKontrol, 3x nanoPad 2, 3x DS1H, 7x PS1, FC7 (yes Korg, NOT Yamaha).
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- Posts: 44
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 10:16 pm
Probably your voltage regulator should have covered a voltage issue but I always gigged with a small UPS. I only plugged my keys and mixer into it but man, that thing saved my life may times. I was using two ASR-10 keyboards that booted from disk so even the smallest power blink and I was looking at a 5 minute reset period. Nothing worse than being mid-song with a dance floor full of people when bam - everything stops dead. People look at you like you are from another planet and you have to do the dreaded "sorry folks we are going to have to take a short break".
After I started carrying that UPS, even if the power went out completekly for a few seconds and the power amps cut out on the PA, I was still rocking and ready to go when the power came back. No one even had to stop dancing.
It does sound to me like a power issue that caused your Triton to freak and I don't know if a UPS would have solved your problem but it might have. What do you think?
After I started carrying that UPS, even if the power went out completekly for a few seconds and the power amps cut out on the PA, I was still rocking and ready to go when the power came back. No one even had to stop dancing.
It does sound to me like a power issue that caused your Triton to freak and I don't know if a UPS would have solved your problem but it might have. What do you think?
Well, I've had the Triton on ALL day and have played it off and on for quite a while. Not a single hiccup yet.
So far, I'm betting on voltage or amperage or gremlins. Those are the best three guesses I have so far but I think the UPS is a good way to go. I've been reluctant to lug one around but I don't want to go through THAT again.
Thanks for the tips. I've got my fingers crossed because I'm not looking forward to finding another on the used market. You never know how poorly someone treated a 10 year old synth.
-Mc
So far, I'm betting on voltage or amperage or gremlins. Those are the best three guesses I have so far but I think the UPS is a good way to go. I've been reluctant to lug one around but I don't want to go through THAT again.
Thanks for the tips. I've got my fingers crossed because I'm not looking forward to finding another on the used market. You never know how poorly someone treated a 10 year old synth.
-Mc
Current Korg Gear: KRONOS 88 (4GB), M50-73 (PS mod), RADIAS-73, Electribe MX, Triton Pro (MOSS, SCSI, CF, 64MB RAM), SQ-64, DVP-1, MEX-8000, MR-1, KAOSSilator, nanoKey, nanoKontrol, 3x nanoPad 2, 3x DS1H, 7x PS1, FC7 (yes Korg, NOT Yamaha).
Well, I've had something like this happen recently a few times. As if a switch on the triton was being depressed. Similar symptoms: automatic scrolling through patches, changing values, weird stuff.
Since two other buttons were getting iffy (I sometimes had to "mash" them), I ended taking my Triton (classic 61) apart and desolder all 40 or so push buttons, and replace them with new ones. I never had the issue since.
It was a 5 hour job, and if you're handy with a soldering iron and electronics and are careful you may be able to do it yourself.
Erik
Since two other buttons were getting iffy (I sometimes had to "mash" them), I ended taking my Triton (classic 61) apart and desolder all 40 or so push buttons, and replace them with new ones. I never had the issue since.
It was a 5 hour job, and if you're handy with a soldering iron and electronics and are careful you may be able to do it yourself.
Erik
Where did you get the buttons? I've been meaning to do the same on both of my Tritons. I'm also looking for a new touchscreen if you know where to get that one at a reasonable price.
-Mc
-Mc
Current Korg Gear: KRONOS 88 (4GB), M50-73 (PS mod), RADIAS-73, Electribe MX, Triton Pro (MOSS, SCSI, CF, 64MB RAM), SQ-64, DVP-1, MEX-8000, MR-1, KAOSSilator, nanoKey, nanoKontrol, 3x nanoPad 2, 3x DS1H, 7x PS1, FC7 (yes Korg, NOT Yamaha).
The buttons are Panasonic EVQ11 9mm. I ordered mine at digikey, part number P8073SCT-ND: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 8073SCT-ND
With decent desoldering braid (absolutely necessary) and 40 switches (get a few extra just in case) the total was less than $20. It's a bit of a task to take the triton apart, and you need reasonable soldering skills, but this can be done. Just be careful not to cook the PCB. I used the desoldering braid to get the old switches out. When installing the new ones make sure they are completely flush with the PCB and perfectly aligned.
Touch screen: not sure if you consider $225 a reasonable price, but guitar-parts sell them: http://www.guitar-parts.com/products/23 ... rinity.htm
Good luck!
Erik
With decent desoldering braid (absolutely necessary) and 40 switches (get a few extra just in case) the total was less than $20. It's a bit of a task to take the triton apart, and you need reasonable soldering skills, but this can be done. Just be careful not to cook the PCB. I used the desoldering braid to get the old switches out. When installing the new ones make sure they are completely flush with the PCB and perfectly aligned.
Touch screen: not sure if you consider $225 a reasonable price, but guitar-parts sell them: http://www.guitar-parts.com/products/23 ... rinity.htm
Good luck!
Erik