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Hope someone can help me here..... The on-board battery in my Trinity V3 died, leaving me with no sounds on my board. I have the original factory floppy disks with the preload sounds, and after replacing the battery, I loaded them to my board. But banks C and D in both Program and Combination mode have no sounds in them at all. How can I get these banks re-loaded to the original factory sounds? Is there an additional set of floppy disks that will do the job? And if so, where do I get them? I have visited Korg USA, but can't seem to find an appropriate prompt that would help me with this problem. Anybody have any ideas that might work, without trying to reload individual sounds, one at a time, into each slot in those banks?

Also, I removed the original battery, after taking the keyboard apart, taking photos of the process at every step so that I could put it all back together right! The battery was soldered into the circuit board, of course. So I removed it, and installed a plastic battery clip (made specifically for the CR2032 battery), soldering it to the OTHER side of the circuit board-- making SURE to match up polarity correctly-- so that I won't have to take the whole dang keyboard apart again to replace the battery when it comes time to do so. The clip by itself does not hold the battery securely enough to withstand the normal use vibration and movement shock that will occur, so I secured the battery with 3 small, equally spaced drops of contact cement after I placed it in the clip, and let them dry. These are easily removed when it comes time to replace the battery, but until then, the battery is nicely secure, and easily accessed. AND.... you won't have to order a battery that is specially equipped with that soldered mounting clip on it-- you can go to just about any store that sells batteries and get a new CR2032. Same battery, no clip, less $$, right now. Just a little DIY info that I hope with be helpful to you Trinity players..... Also, there is a YouTube video of the battery replacement process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7dvyuou26o

It's in fast-forward speed, so you'll have to use the tools icon to slow the speed down to 25% to really see what the process is. -R

Richiebonds wrote:Hope someone can help me here..... The on-board battery in my Trinity V3 died, leaving me with no sounds on my board. I have the original factory floppy disks with the preload sounds, and after replacing the battery, I loaded them to my board. But banks C and D in both Program and Combination mode have no sounds in them at all. How can I get these banks re-loaded to the original factory sounds? Is there an additional set of floppy disks that will do the job? And if so, where do I get them? I have visited Korg USA, but can't seem to find an appropriate prompt that would help me with this problem. Anybody have any ideas that might work, without trying to reload individual sounds, one at a time, into each slot in those banks?

Also, I removed the original battery, after taking the keyboard apart, taking photos of the process at every step so that I could put it all back together right! The battery was soldered into the circuit board, of course. So I removed it, and installed a plastic battery clip (made specifically for the CR2032 battery), soldering it to the OTHER side of the circuit board-- making SURE to match up polarity correctly-- so that I won't have to take the whole dang keyboard apart again to replace the battery when it comes time to do so. The clip by itself does not hold the battery securely enough to withstand the normal use vibration and movement shock that will occur, so I secured the battery with 3 small, equally spaced drops of contact cement after I placed it in the clip, and let them dry. These are easily removed when it comes time to replace the battery, but until then, the battery is nicely secure, and easily accessed. AND.... you won't have to order a battery that is specially equipped with that soldered mounting clip on it-- you can go to just about any store that sells batteries and get a new CR2032. Same battery, no clip, less $$, right now. Just a little DIY info that I hope with be helpful to you Trinity players..... Also, there is a YouTube video of the battery replacement process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7dvyuou26o

It's in fast-forward speed, so you'll have to use the tools icon to slow the speed down to 25% to really see what the process is. -R

I responded on the other thread you posted about bank C and D…

Richiebonds wrote:Hope someone can help me here..... The on-board battery in my Trinity V3 died, leaving me with no sounds on my board. I have the original factory floppy disks with the preload sounds, and after replacing the battery, I loaded them to my board. But banks C and D in both Program and Combination mode have no sounds in them at all. How can I get these banks re-loaded to the original factory sounds? Is there an additional set of floppy disks that will do the job? And if so, where do I get them? I have visited Korg USA, but can't seem to find an appropriate prompt that would help me with this problem. Anybody have any ideas that might work, without trying to reload individual sounds, one at a time, into each slot in those banks?

Also, I removed the original battery, after taking the keyboard apart, taking photos of the process at every step so that I could put it all back together right! The battery was soldered into the circuit board, of course. So I removed it, and installed a plastic battery clip (made specifically for the CR2032 battery), soldering it to the OTHER side of the circuit board-- making SURE to match up polarity correctly-- so that I won't have to take the whole dang keyboard apart again to replace the battery when it comes time to do so. The clip by itself does not hold the battery securely enough to withstand the normal use vibration and movement shock that will occur, so I secured the battery with 3 small, equally spaced drops of contact cement after I placed it in the clip, and let them dry. These are easily removed when it comes time to replace the battery, but until then, the battery is nicely secure, and easily accessed. AND.... you won't have to order a battery that is specially equipped with that soldered mounting clip on it-- you can go to just about any store that sells batteries and get a new CR2032. Same battery, no clip, less $$, right now. Just a little DIY info that I hope with be helpful to you Trinity players..... Also, there is a YouTube video of the battery replacement process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7dvyuou26o

It's in fast-forward speed, so you'll have to use the tools icon to slow the speed down to 25% to really see what the process is. -R

Would you kindly share your step by step photos?
I especially like the idea of mounting the cr2032 clip/holder on the opposite side. What holder/clip did you order? Asking because the ones I found on Ebay don't have the right spacing on the pins, but perhaps the motherboard already has holes/predisposition for those?:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275232159623 ... 5504672434

Best!

I would also be glad to know a reference for a holder that has 3 pins and not 2 ! My Trinity has started moaning about the battery. Keen to do the same mod and install a holder, but I cannot find any ref that seems to fit.

I just successfully completed a Trinity battery holder conversion.

I used 2-legged CR2032 battery holders ordered through Ebay from China (extremely inexpensive @ $1.25 for quantity 10 pieces, including shipping). I first checked various websites (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay, Digikey, Mouser, etc.) and saw a number of designs, but all were 2-legged only, and none seemed clearly superior, and a single piece "name brand" one from Digikey, for example, would have cost around $10 or more with shipping, so I took a chance on the cheapies, and have plenty for future projects/conversions.

The original Trinity soldered battery (Sony brand on my V3-61) has 2 legs attached by a tab to the top "+" (positive) side of the battery, and a single leg attached by a tab to the bottom "-" (negative) side. There is redundancy on the positive legs for the sake of stability, meaning that only one positive leg is actually needed for battery function, so in the battery holder installation only one of the two positive battery leg holes (your choice which) on the Trinity mainboard needs to be connected to the battery. The remaining positive battery leg hole will therefore remain empty after the battery holder conversion.

After removing the original battery, I used a desoldering braid wick to completely clear the holes of solder. (I didn't have much trouble clearing the holes, but if you do, you can try actually ADDING a small bit of solder to the holes, to then allow your wick more solder to contact, and thereby remove everything through a greater "capillary" flowing motion.)

I installed the single positive leg of the battery holder into the positive hole NOT marked "+" on the mainboard. This results in the axis of battery holder's two legs orienting AWAY from the rectangular black plastic 26-pin "DI-TRI" expansion connector on the mainboard. The result is more space to manipulate the battery/holder when replacing battery in the future.

The battery holder's two legs are positioned too close together to quite reach the farther placement of the corresponding mainboard battery holes. To make the legs fit, I used a small pair of flat-tipped pliers to carefully bend each leg to a cantilevered "L-shape" in order to extend their reach's width.

This also means that unlike the original battery legs, which were long enough to travel through the holes and then the excess bent to hug the opposite side of the board and soldered, the now shortened/cantilevered battery holder legs will not reach much through the holes to the other side of the mainboard. However, the legs reach into or just barely through the holes, enough for solder to hold them securely in place and make proper contact.

To increase stability, since the bottom of the installed battery holder is not flush with the mainboard (because of cantilevered leg modification), I used a glue gun (cheapie from dollar store works great!) to add a dab of hot glue under each of two opposite edges of the holder, between the holder 's bottom and the mainboard surface. Everything nice and solid!

As an aside, it would REALLY be great to have a single, concise, comprehensive, illustrated document AND video on the following Trinity common upgrades and maintenance:

1) Battery holder conversion
2) Added Banks C, D, and doubled-S/M/Drum memory activation expansion (without PBS-TRI)
3) Gotek USB floppy emulator installation and configuration with all three available firmwares; Gotek stock, HxC, and FlashFloppy (EDIT: I've since written extensive guide here, and believe HxC is best solution for both Trinity and Triton: https://torlus.com/floppy/forum/viewtop ... 804#p25804 )
4) Upgrading Trinity OS, including writing OS floppy disk media on modern Win/Mac PCs, and also using HxC (and FlashFloppy, if possible) (EDIT: See link in #3, above.)
5) Repairing Trinity audio/headphone outputs and volume slider
6) Replacing display backlight bulb, touchscreen digitizer panel layer, replacing LCD.
(There are existing applicable guides for Trinity 61/76 Yamaha FS keybed maintenance/repair.)

Very clear and helpful. Thanks!