Kronos 1 61 Top Panel Replacement

[johnlucas]

Hi everyone,

has anyone ever replaced the top panel of a Kronos 61?
I have a spare top panel, but before I ever embark in such a task I was interested in knowing if anyone ever did it and whether it would be too difficult.

I would highly appreciate productive comments, so please save me from comments like "why you would ever do that", "never thought my Kronos would get obsolete because of the top panel" and the likes

Thank you have a great Sunday!

John

[KK]

To accomplish this, you have to remove/reassemble the keyboard action, several components and most of the PCBs inside your unit. I did quite a few mods in my K2 so for me it would be easy but it can be intimidating if you open your unit for the first time. In short, you will need to be meticulous and very careful to not damage anything (though it's not rocket science, I would recommend do not attempt if you have no experience in handling electronic circuits, delicate connectors, how to avoid ESD, etc.). The LCD screen is very fragile as well.

If you decide to go ahead, I strongly recommend you take pics as you disassemble so to replace everything as before.

[average_male]

Never attempted what you are doing but have taken my Kronos 73 apart pretty much completely and leaving just a couple of PCBs installed.

So when you say top panel, are you referring to the actual metal casing that has cutouts for the various knobs, buttons and such? If so, the one thing I’d recommend is to be super careful when removing any FFC (Flat Flexible Cables) as the connectors for these types of cable are super fragile and have a limited open/close lifespan and breaking the seating clip for these connectors will require either a new board or have the connector replaced (which will require a good level of soldering/flowing experience). Also, different FFC connectors open/close differently. Some have a single pressure latch on top while others have left and right tension levers. I’ve seen for the same mode of electronic device have different FFC connectors due to manufacturer limited supply or production run refinements. To me, this is the most scariest part of repairing/upgrading electronic devices.

Also, if possible, would recommend holding off until you require opening up your Kronos 61, for like upgrading SSD, RAM or replacing bad power supply.

[samriccijr]

Hi John!

Proceed without fear! It is just a machine held together with screws and solder.

I have replaced buttons, capacitors, displays and power supplies in the 01/W, i3, X3, Trinity, Triton and Karma.

I have opened my Kronos 1 88 and fixed connectors, replaced keys, arranged key weights and installed blue key contact strips.

Put the screws in marked plastic bags.
Photograph each layer as you remove screws and boards.
Order some replacement buttons and re-solder them if necessary.
Re-solder the pads for the output jacks, sustain jacks and encoder wheel.
Tighten the joystick and ribbon while you are there.
Be careful when handling the Audio and MIDI/IO boards.
Be very careful when removing the touch screen.
have a magnet nearby. You will drop screws where you can't reach them.
Don't be surprised if some of the screws have locking compound on them.
Use a can of air to blow out the dust on the power supply, fan and boards.
Carefully re-seat any connectors before you put it back together.
Get the service manual.

If you take your time it should take you about one to two hours to strip down the old panel and re-install everything in the new panel.

The new top will make the Kronos look great! And you will feel good that you saved a keyboard from the landfill.

Sam in NJ USA

[Xenophile]

And above all, be careful not to mis-align the polydismorphic refornification manifold!

Hi John!

Proceed without fear! It is just a machine held together with screws and solder.

I have replaced buttons, capacitors, displays and power supplies in the 01/W, i3, X3, Trinity, Triton and Karma.

I have opened my Kronos 1 88 and fixed connectors, replaced keys, arranged key weights and installed blue key contact strips.

Put the screws in marked plastic bags.
Photograph each layer as you remove screws and boards.
Order some replacement buttons and re-solder them if necessary.
Re-solder the pads for the output jacks, sustain jacks and encoder wheel.
Tighten the joystick and ribbon while you are there.
Be careful when handling the Audio and MIDI/IO boards.
Be very careful when removing the touch screen.
have a magnet nearby. You will drop screws where you can't reach them.
Don't be surprised if some of the screws have locking compound on them.
Use a can of air to blow out the dust on the power supply, fan and boards.
Carefully re-seat any connectors before you put it back together.
Get the service manual.

If you take your time it should take you about one to two hours to strip down the old panel and re-install everything in the new panel.

The new top will make the Kronos look great! And you will feel good that you saved a keyboard from the landfill.

Sam in NJ USA

[JonSolo]

And above all, be careful not to mis-align the polydismorphic refornification manifold!

This.

Took the words right out of my mouth.

[johnlucas]

Hi Everyone
thank you so much for you inputs.

Do you think it is possible to retain most of the connections between the components while moving them to the new top panel?

I was thinking of disconnecting them from the old panel without necessarily disconnect everything, just by placing padding layers between components to avoid any damage when placing them inside the new panel.

e.g. the MIDI I/O board can be removed from the panel by unscrewing it, but can its connection to the rest of the circuitry be retained?

Maybe I am over simplifying the process, but wondering whether this may reduce the statistical chances of screwing up everything

[KK]

Short answer is no, there are connectors which must be undone/reconnected, including the delicate FFC one going to the LCD, etc.