M50 Freezing problem resolved.

JerseyMac · Post by **JerseyMac** » Wed Jan 21, 2015 4:35 pm

I started a new topic because I thought that this info may be useful.

Looks like I fixed freezing problem with my Korg M50 88.
I spoke with Korg's serviceman, he told me that in 90% of cases with M50's freezing problem is caused by wiring harness connectors from center circuit board to right or left panel circuit boards. Wires are often too loose in those little plastic plugs but sometimes are too firmly pressed and cut.
So, I unplugged all plastic plugs (connectors) on left and right PCBs, then I twisted wires making one full circle to make more tension on these connectors and I plugged them back. My M50 didn't freeze since then. Looks like it fixed the problem.

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:29 pm

This sounds like a very realistic solution.

A few days ago I saw a display warning about left/right panel.
Now my M50 freezes after about 1 minute after startup.

When I have some time I'm going to try this solution; thanks for sharing!

JerseyMac · Post by **JerseyMac** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:40 pm

michelkeijzers wrote: A few days ago I saw a display warning about left/right panel.
Now my M50 freezes after about 1 minute after startup.

When I have some time I'm going to try this solution; thanks for sharing!

I didn't have any messages, so it might be something else in your case. But it never hurts to try.

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 12:17 pm

I've opened my M50 but there are not that many connectors, and the one from the display are not disconnectable. Which connectors exactly did you reconnect (and what do you mean with 'turned around connectors to make more tension on wire harnesses'?

JerseyMac · Post by **JerseyMac** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 2:31 pm

michelkeijzers wrote:I've opened my M50 but there are not that many connectors, and the one from the display are not disconnectable. Which connectors exactly did you reconnect (and what do you mean with 'turned around connectors to make more tension on wire harnesses'?

What I did was disconnecting all these white plastic plugs (connectors) on left and right PCB's (printed circuit boards) then I twisted each wire harness making one full circle, then I plugged them back. I didn't touch anything on display. By twisting wires there is more tension on these plugs.

unplug<br> twist<br> plug again<br>

Just do it one by one so you don't mix them up. I hope I helped?

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 4:43 pm

It seems to work again ... just removed most connectors around the LCD and reconnected them again (including blowing for dust removal).

Thanks for the tip!

JerseyMac · Post by **JerseyMac** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:05 pm

I'm glad it worked for you too!

GMUL · Post by **GMUL** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:27 pm

Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.

McHale · Post by **McHale** » Wed Feb 18, 2015 6:31 pm

GMUL wrote:Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.

If the keybed is destroyed, you should turn that M50-88 into a module.

-Mc

GMUL · Post by **GMUL** » Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:32 am

@ mchale

Do you mean take the monstrously heavy keyboard with me and midi it to a controller? This would destroy my soul to load, lift, and have to see my €1600 keyboards that is unplayable. I am going to use it as a donor form my 73 note and try to sell that "Frankenstein " to fund a kronos. I just simply love the kronos.

On a related topic... Has no one else broken the keys on this 88 note keyboard. I seem to be the only one who has experienced this and I am on a lot of forums. The problem is that the little plastic hinges on the top of the keys seem to snap and the little rubber caps on the weighted mechanism also perish. I must have circa 20 keys gone on my 88. It's so frustrating. I am wondering did leaving the keyboard in the band wagon over freezing cold winters weaken the plastic ? We don't usually have very cold winters in Ireland but about 6 years ago temperatures got down to about -15 and it seems to have all started then. Anyways I digress.... I have both my 88 and 73 together since the 73 started to fail AGAIN ( got capicators replace about a year ago) so tomorrow I am changing the pcbs

charlestech · Post by **charlestech** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 3:13 am

My M50 61 freezes after startup. All locked.
I'm desperate and sad because I used it rarely.
Technical assistance is almost 1 thousand miles from my residence.
If I open it to disconnect and reconnect all the cables again, will fix the problem?

Is it easy to open it? Can I do it?

Help me, please.

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 12:33 pm

charlestech wrote:My M50 61 freezes after startup. All locked.
I'm desperate and sad because I used it rarely.
Technical assistance is almost 1 thousand miles from my residence.
If I open it to disconnect and reconnect all the cables again, will fix the problem?

Is it easy to open it? Can I do it?

Help me, please.

Mostly this works, especially the cables from/to the display.

It is fairly easy to open, just a lot of screws. Remember which are where. Be careful about the cables of course.

And if you can do it, depends if you trust yourself doing this.

alfredokiwi · Post by **alfredokiwi** » Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:42 pm

GMUL wrote:Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.

But supposedly the M50 88 keys use a Fatar hammer action keybed, is that correct? Or use the same keybed as the Krome or Sp-170? I´m lost...

GMUL · Post by **GMUL** » Sun May 03, 2015 5:02 pm

alfredokiwi wrote:
GMUL wrote:Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.
But supposedly the M50 88 keys use a Fatar hammer action keybed, is that correct? Or use the same keybed as the Krome or Sp-170? I´m lost...

Why are you lost??

alfredokiwi · Post by **alfredokiwi** » Mon May 04, 2015 2:19 pm

GMUL wrote:
alfredokiwi wrote:
GMUL wrote:Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.
But supposedly the M50 88 keys use a Fatar hammer action keybed, is that correct? Or use the same keybed as the Krome or Sp-170? I´m lost...
Why are you lost??

I´m no more lost, I find the answer. It use the last RH3 keybed here is a users video showing the SP250 with same RH3 keybed issues. Previous 88 keys Korg TR, OASYS, Triton and other top brands use the Italian FATAR keybeds from the 90s which seems to be stronger, but of course all this depends on users experiencing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/O_t1dv_k53M" frameborder="0"></iframe>