Korg Forums

Even though this thread is old, I'd like to inform you (specially Grey) that a description as how to change a button can be found at;
http://www.korgforums.com/forum/phpBB2/ ... 136#311136

However, those of you that have a repairshop conveniently near, USE THEM!

Wings.

Hello Wings:

It’s good to hear from you. You have provided a valuable description and photos. Many thanks.

I do have a question regarding the cutting of the clear plastic posts which are on the bottom side of the button. I did not encounter this problem when I replaced a few of my buttons.

I recall that another Forum Member mentioned that they had to file out the hole in the chassis so that the button did not stick. Anyone who attempts to replace the button should bear in mind that the buttons do come in two different widths (17mm and 19mm). Make sure you order, receive and install the correct ones.

It's been a while since I replace mine, but I recall that I also had a problem because my new button would stick against the side of the metal case. When I disassembled it I vaguely recall that I had installed the Black Plastic Piece underneath backwards. This piece rides directly underneath the button. When I reinstalled the Black Plastic Piece correctly by turning it 180 degrees it worked perfectly with no modification.

Kjeld ~ I would be interested in hearing from you on this issue ~ What has been your experience? Do you recall anything like what I’m talking about? I could disassemble my keyboard to refresh my memory but I guess I’m too lazy. I’ll take notice next time I have to replace a button.

Like many Forum Members I depend on my Pa1x to perform on gigs. I’ve been afraid that the button problem would catch me in a lurch and let me down. I thought about buying the Pa2x but it appears that the new Pa2x has the same design ~ does anyone know if that’s true? Anyway I decided that two is better than one and so I purchased a second Pa1x for a back up. This has worked out beautifully. I have one set up at home for practice and another one loaded ready to go.

Any modifications that I might make on one are easily down loaded onto the other one and if the buttons go bad on one I’ve got the other one for a back up. In addition I feel more at ease when experimenting. I’m no longer afraid of screwing the up unit because I’ve always got the other one ready for my next gig.

Cheers ~ Charley Brown

hi charlie brown, its nice to hear you got those buttons fixed, benok

Charley Brown wrote:Hello Wings:
It’s good to hear from you. You have provided a valuable description and photos. Many thanks.

Thanks dude, hope it helps our members and fellow Korgians.

Charley Brown wrote:I do have a question regarding the cutting of the clear plastic posts which are on the bottom side of the button. I did not encounter this problem when I replaced a few of my buttons.

Like I mentioned, this was the fact in mine. I don't know why, it could be that there is a slight production-variation in the buttons, but when you try to re-install it and kinda hold the print in place with your thumbs and simultaniously try to push on the button in question, it will be fairly obvious if it is working or not.

Charley Brown wrote: I recall that another Forum Member mentioned that they had to file out the hole in the chassis so that the button did not stick. Anyone who attempts to replace the button should bear in mind that the buttons do come in two different widths (17mm and 19mm). Make sure you order, receive and install the correct ones.

It's been a while since I replace mine, but I recall that I also had a problem because my new button would stick against the side of the metal case. When I disassembled it I vaguely recall that I had installed the Black Plastic Piece underneath backwards. This piece rides directly underneath the button. When I reinstalled the Black Plastic Piece correctly by turning it 180 degrees it worked perfectly with no modification.

Yes, this is true. But the rubber/plastic-piece underneath is also self-explanatory once you study it a bit. It has a cut-out that will fit in the aluminum-chassis for stability, and if you were to set it 180 deg. wrong, it will have to be pushed in place rather than slide right in.

Charley Brown wrote:Like many Forum Members I depend on my Pa1x to perform on gigs. I’ve been afraid that the button problem would catch me in a lurch and let me down. I thought about buying the Pa2x but it appears that the new Pa2x has the same design ~ does anyone know if that’s true? Anyway I decided that two is better than one and so I purchased a second Pa1x for a back up. This has worked out beautifully. I have one set up at home for practice and another one loaded ready to go.

Whoooah! I guess you must be one of Korgs favorite customers...bying 2 of most eq.
Well, as for me, I could never afford that, however I have been pondering the idea to get a PAX2 for myself...sometime.