Dead triton extreme 76 . Everything works but no audio out

[zappacat]

Local off vs local on.

Yes, I've tried it both ways with the same result. Still no audio. Thank you all so much for your help in trying to troubleshoot this problem.

[X-Trade]

Have you tried routing to alternate outputs like someone suggested and I took the time to explain?

I hope you do get it fixed by the way.

[zappacat]

Have you tried routing to alternate outputs like someone suggested and I took the time to explain?

I hope you do get it fixed by the way.

No, Thanks for the advice. I'm trying to fix the power supply right now as is described in this thread . I'm pretty sure the root of all the problems on this board stem from the lack of the +15 volt rail or whatever you call it. If and when I get the power supply straightened out I'll be taking your advice in the next step if it's still malfunctioning.

[UCanDream]

zappacat.

I have a TritonEX88 and currently two fully functional 61's. If I had access to your 76 I would swap out parts one by one until the failed component(s) was isolated. I'm in Canon City, CO which is a ways from you....however, each weekend I drive to Salina (although, sometimes I return with an already loaded car. Anyway, just something to think about. Oh, and am I suggesting that I take your Triton home with me? Yes, I am. So if you are a guy that does not trust people, then this might not work for you.

This is going to sound funny, but I actually purchased an Ensoniq TS12 on eBay for the sole purpose of trouble shooting a dead (but MINT MINT MINT) TS12 that I intended to keep. I swapped out one component at a time and in a few minutes I had the bad part in my hand. Anyway, that is the whole idea here...


Sincere regards.
UCanDream aka David

[xmlguy]

The problem with your plan is that you stand to waste a lot of time and risk further damage is you start pulling components before you've diagnosed the problem. Capacitors of that age are unlikely to have failed without visible damage. First, I suggest trying to get your hands on a schematic of the circuit. Then you can trace the circuit with an oscilloscope to narrow down the likely failure(s) at the component level. I'd only start pulling and replacing components after they have been more carefully identified. Surface mount printed circuit boards and components are more sensitive to further damage by unskilled use with a soldering iron than guitar amps. One shorted trace can easily blow an IC that was working before the work was done, and the pin clearances are very small. It also doesn't take much excess heat to fry an IC. Repairing surface mount boards is a skill that usually takes quite a bit of skill, and many failed efforts while learning it, so practicing on an expensive keyboard is probably not a good idea. I suggest that a novice should practice on cheaper surface mount boards before moving to expensive ones.

This video shows some of the issues involved:

http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides ... ering/101/

[Goom]

I noticed in your first post that you pulled the motherboard. something I would double or triple check is to make certain that all of the connectors were connected again. It's easy to miss some of them when re-assembling. I say this with past surgical experience on another synth or three.

Also, I'd like to mention that if you're doing power supply checks with the power/mains connected, please be VERY cautious, or better yet, leave it to a professional tech to repair. You can kill or hurt yourself, and that's not worth it just to repair a synth.

I scanned the schematics for a Triton (not an Extreme). I would think they would be of similar circuitry. I noticed there are muting circuits at the outputs (after the DAC). As mentioned before, you might try routing the output to output jacks 3 and 4. Chances are it won't work because you said the headphone wasn't working, but it's worth a try. It's free!

I would also try controlling the Extreme with a different keyboard using the Extreme's MIDI In to see if that works.

A side note is that I find it strange that you didn't find 15 volts coming from the power supply, but it powers up and seems to function correctly (sans audio). My guess is that you didn't measure it correctly (wrong pin/s, both probes not completed touching the pins, etc), or that the power supply needed to be plugged into the rest of the synth (as was prev. mentioned).

If a component on the main board did die, it might be best to sell it for parts, and splurge for another synth.

Good luck...

[Goom]

Hello again. I was just looking at your pic of the motherboard. In the top left corner, there is a cap (possibly C159) that looks strange to me. It could be fine, but I have seen caps short internally, which caused them to heat up and melt away the vinyl label/wrapping. It can look very much like C159 if that happens, OR maybe that's just the way that cap looks - I don't know (meaning the cap might be perfectly fine).

You could test it by measuring resistance across the two leads. Measuring resistance requires that the ***power is OFF***. If the cap reads a low resistance, it might be shorted. If it did read a low resistance, you would have to desolder it and measure it out of the circuit to be sure. If it reads a low resistance out of circuit, it's bad and would have to be replaced.

As for the caps that you circled in purple, the reddish-orange caps rarely/never go bad (unless a nearby component shorts out and fries it). You can do a resistance measurement for the other caps (using the description in the previous paragraph). The drawback with measuring resistance is that it won't always tell you if a cap is bad. A lot of caps will only fail when the circuit is powered up.

Another test that you can do is to select a program and then try to sample it. The sample mode has level indicators that will tell you if the synth is producing a signal digitally.

Again, I'd like to mention to double check that all cables were re-connected internally. It's easy to forget cables that might have fallen out of the way, out of sight.