help!! repair korg EMX 1!

Chemtek · Post by **Chemtek** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 3:33 pm

i try all the Korg repair shop in portugal, and they all say the same! the mainboard is f*** up! do u think i should try to send it to england for last inspection?? thankx for all the people that try to help!

make some f**** noize!!!

Yatmandu · Post by **Yatmandu** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:53 am

Again, either they're all right, or they're all idiot - so you have nothing to lose now by even short-circuiting the fuse to see if the machine even turns on. Try to find someone with electronics experience, and do a search in this forum for the post with the pictures of the fuse location. I mean, dude, if you send it to the UK, how do you know it won't land on the lap of yet another muppet? Take control of the situation!

jansson · Post by **jansson** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:15 pm

Hi!
Thanks all for this topic. I can confirm that bypassing the fuse did the trick for me. My EX-1 didn't display anything in the LCD (just yellow light). The red cable in the picture fixed my problems and it's now working perfect again. I used a longer cable to be able to insert a fuse in the future.

Greetings from Sweden
//Jansson
www.janssonmusic.com

xmlguy · Post by **xmlguy** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:56 am

With that jumper loop, you can use a DC clamp-on ammeter to measure the current so that you can select an appropriate fuse to place in-line. Leaving out that fuse could cause more serious damage in the event of another power spike condition.

Yatmandu · Post by **Yatmandu** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:45 pm

Yes, please don't operate it without the fuse. What I suggested was to test that your machine is still working. Now go replace that with a proper fuse! My assumptions about the idiot repair dudes was right! What a lazy bunch of monkeys!! I'm glad your machine is working.

harvestein · Post by **harvestein** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:49 pm

This isnt the same guy, I assume Chemtek has given up and is wallowing in despair!

The fuse looks really awkward to replace without using a jump wire though. Damn surface mounted crap!

Yatmandu · Post by **Yatmandu** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:28 pm

ooops, right you are! different guy. hopefully chemtek is not wallowing in korg repairland

Chemtek · Post by **Chemtek** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:06 pm

i am not in despair.....iam searching some that understand something about electronic to touch my machine! but iam really sad that maybe i will not resolve the problem, and i have this machine in the box!

Chemtek · Post by **Chemtek** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:48 pm

hello, i open the machine with a friend and we realize that the fuse1 was fried and the fuse C112(10V) next the fuse1( right in the picture)
was totally burned! we did the bypass in both fuses and the problem continues!
i connected and only yellow screen! please if u can help me more i will be very happy, anyway thankx for all!

X-Trade · Post by **X-Trade** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:56 pm

Chemtek wrote:hello, i open the machine with a friend and we realize that the fuse1 was fried and the fuse C112(10V) next the fuse1( right in the picture)
was totally burned! we did the bypass in both fuses and the problem continues!
i connected and only yellow screen! please if u can help me more i will be very happy, anyway thankx for all!

Well that's probably not a good start because C112 is not a fuse!

The fuse is quite obviously marked FUSE1, so why would a second fuse be marked with a C?

C usually stands for Capacitor and does seem to be written next to all the other capacitors on the board...
I'm not sure whether simply bypassing this would cause any damage, but certainly doesn't seem like a good idea.

Chemtek · Post by **Chemtek** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 6:24 pm

hello X-trade,
thankx for the help, yes u r rigth, C112 is a capacitor, and what u suggest about it? some change, do u think is possible to find capacitors like this? because i didnt find any fuse like fuse1 in shop, maybe i have to send it from another country.

regards

X-Trade · Post by **X-Trade** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 6:55 pm

Fuse1 would be difficult to replace, because it is a surface-mount component. Typically the type that is soldered to the board using a machine, it isn't really designed to be replaced easily. You definitely won't find it in a shop, however you may find it online.
The easier thing to do would be to solder a new fuse of the same rating across those pins, but using wire to get it away from the board - so you don't have to fit it into exactly the same area that it was before. Basically break the wire you have bypassed it with and put the fuse on that wire.

The capacitor should be easier to find.

iD4rK · Post by **iD4rK** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:46 pm

You are not helping!

Do what the people on this forums say, or do what the technical service says and get a new one if you are so afraid to break something that is already broken.

If you want future advice start posting pictures of your board so we can see it or write down the components that are burned on a piece of paper go to an electronics shop and get the new parts for under 2 dollar and solder them on place, check the polarity.

You have nothing to loose. Now, make your hands dirty.

harvestein · Post by **harvestein** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:56 pm

You should not have shorted the capacitor? why did you not just short the fuse?

Are you sure you didnt leave the capacitor connection open?
Are you sure it was fried? capacitors can become leaky, that doesnt mean they are broken though.
Double check the fuse is definately jumped properly, and put the capacitor back if you can.
If not i think that capacitor is a 47 uF, 10v surface mount electrolytic capacitor. I still cant beleive you were scared to open it and then ripped more out more than you should have.

Cant guarantee it will work now you have done that to be honest.

A picture would help.