Korg Forums

d3k · Joined: 18 Dec 2011 Posts: 33

(erased)...

keyplayer14 · Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 5:49 am Post subject:

McHale · Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:09 am Post subject:

d3k · Joined: 18 Dec 2011 Posts: 33

I noticed earlier this evening that the gap between my keys and the front metal housing was uneven just like rmvieira stated. There was about a 1-2mm separation at the left-most and right-most keys but near middle C there was almost no separation whatsoever.

I used a key card (basically credit card but one that had no raised digits), inserted it into the gap between the keys and the front metal housing and pulled out a bit to even the gap. This was pretty easy as it turns out the front metal housing bends pretty damn easily... guess that's why Korg had the cardboard spacer.

Anyhow, I thought it had made the cutoff go away but unfortunately, it did not help. The gap is now even across all keys yet I still have the issue.

d3k · Joined: 18 Dec 2011 Posts: 33

(Pardon my lack of official vocab/terms -- I'm just a hobbyist)

I have not opened up my keyboard (and will not do so) so I have no idea what the mechanism is on the RH3. But based on the link sent out by McHale, I feel that the primary issue here are two things:

a.) The force that returns the key to the unpressed position is very strong on the RH3

b.) The damper (whatever electronic or physical equivalent is used on the RH3) engages too quickly (not much tolerance here)

I've watched my fingers while I play. If I play hard or while playing softly I consciously put the effort into to prevent my fingers from lifting due to the key's rebound effect, I can avoid the issue. But as soon as I relax and/or allow my fingers to lift under the force of the key rebounding, I get the cutoff. The damper seems to kick in on an upward lift of the key of only 1-2mm. That's not much tolerance. So if your finger bounces, well, cutoff.

We could prove this by videotaping those of us having the issue and seeing in the case where the cutoff occurs, whether our fingers 'bounce'.

Now I'm not sure if this is a technique issue or not. And McHale's link discusses how uprights usually don't engage the damper until the key is almost all the way up whereas grand pianos engage the damper on a slight lift of the key. But I would think that if the force or damper tolerance was configurable somehow, this would be a non-issue. If this is governed electronically, I think a software change could fix it. But if the mechanism is all mechanical, I would think we're out of luck. Also on a mechanical mechanism, variations during manufacturing could cause this force/tolerance to be different on the various keyboards sent out and it could be different across keys.

As of right now, I can repro on demand on every key on my keyboard.

d3k · Joined: 18 Dec 2011 Posts: 33

Hmm... I just skimmed through the PDF of the manual I have for the Kronos and there seems to be an adjustment in the menus for keyboard response velocity and after touch curve. I wonder if adjusting this can lessen the effects I mentioned in my message above?

Edit: nope, didn't help. Oh well.

Kim · Full Member Joined: 18 Jul 2011 Posts: 106

KorgKeymaster · Junior Member Joined: 19 May 2011 Posts: 52

+1 on the note cutoff/double strike not being caused by poor piano technique.

If it were poor piano technique then I would not only experience it on the Kronos 88/73. It's actually pretty insulting for someone to even bring up piano technique as a possible cause IMHO. I can't speak for everyone else but I have been playing for many years and have several years of formal training not only in classical but other styles as well. I have played and performed on all the high end weighted keyboards (Fantom G, Motif, m3, Nord etc) and top pianos around the world (Fazioli, Steinway NY & Hbg, Bosendorfer). IT IS NOT AN ISSUE OF PIANO TECHNIQUE!

The only time I have experienced double strikes on acoustic pianos were when the action needed regulation and the strikes were ALWAYS confined to certain notes.

I am well aware of the correct way to produce soft tones when playing. You still must play into the keys even while playing soft if you want a full tone. However, while doing so cutoffs/double strikes still occur on Kronos. The only way to avoid the problem is to totally switch the amount of force you are playing with by increasing it, thus rendering a tone at a higher velocity...aka play harder and louder.

More food for thought... Roland experienced a cutoff/note stealing issue with their RD-700NX... They kept in touch with their customers and fixed the problem through a software update. I'm aware that Korg's issue may be hardware related. The point I am making is that Roland handled it in a relatively prompt but professional manner, thus retaining many happy customers.

billysynth1 · Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:26 am Post subject:

McHale is right...I've just experimented and discovered that my technique, after so many years of playing Rachmaninoff, Debussy etc, requires adjustment.

Thanks to McHale i now play with my penis...problem fixed. Thanks Mckie old boy...

Vas
_________________
Yamaha C1 Grand Piano.
Korg Oasys 88, Jupiter 80
Kronos 88, V Synth GT
I am a student of classical piano...I am not a classical pianist.

Bruce Lychee · Platinum Member Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Posts: 856

danmusician · Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:43 am Post subject:

danmusician · Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:46 am Post subject:

To McHale:

Thanks for the research. Well done. I haven't read this thread for a while. When I came in this AM, I was pleased to read your info.

Sincerely,

Dan
_________________
Kronos 2 88, Kronos Classic 73, PX-5S, Kronos 2 61, Roli Seaboard Rise 49

Rocness · Guest

Could it be possible that the major earthquake that Japan had right near the Korg warehouse has something to do with all of the problems the Kronos is having because I remember the earthquake happen around the same time the Kronos was ready to ship ?